Wok You
[2007-03-21 09:30]
I'm not usually aggressive about my Chinese heritage. First and foremost, I consider myself an American -- not because of patriotism or nationalism, but because of simple facts: I was born and raised in America; if I'm lucky, I'll breed here; and I'll probably die here. I speak English fluently, but only a few words and phrases in Chinese. All told, I think that means I'm an American. So, I usually don't get too bent out of shape about various attitudes towards China and its oppressive government, for example.
Also, I've had a pretty decent, middle-classed life. I can't say that I personally and directly have ever felt the pangs of discrimination. And I can only remember one anti-asian joke that I've ever found offensive (the context in which the joke was couched was really more offensive than the joke itself). So, I haven't really ever felt the need or desire to pull the race card for any reason.
But this CNN article about Chinese food hits close to home, and it pisses me off.
The article purports that "Chinese restaurants [are] a nutritionist's nightmare", "The typical Chinese restaurant menu is a sea of nutritional no-nos" and that "Chinese restaurant food is bad for your waistline and blood pressure."
This article is a sea of crap for three reasons:
- shoddy science
- shoddy journalism
- racist undertones
First, the study was performed by the Center for Science in the Public Interest which cites that "[t]he numbers are based on our independent lab analyses, as well as information from two nationwide chains."
Basing an entire theory (and presenting it as fact) on two data points is the worst kind of junk science. To generalize this theory across all Chinese food and all Chinese restaurants is repulsive.
Which leads to the second point. While the original CSPI report states that "Chinese restaurant food is loaded with salt", it also notes that "Chinese restaurants deserve credit for keeping a lid on saturated and trans fat." Nowhere in the report does it say or imply that Chinese restaurant food is "a nutritionist's nightmare".
The CSPI's press release about the report is even more accomodating. For example, the press release says that "Popular Chinese restaurant meals can contain an entire day�s worth of sodium... (emphasis mine). By contrast, the CNN article states "Chinese restaurant food is bad for your waistline and blood pressure."
The CSPI's statement is a qualified one. Of course Chinese restaurant meals can contain a lot of sodium -- any meal can contain a lot of sodium. The CNN article, however, changes this meaningless statement to be a universal truth. It no longer becomes a question of which restaurant you're at, or how the food is cooked, or what food you're eating. According to CNN, the very fact that it's from a Chinese restaurant makes it bad for you. That's really crappy, sensationalistic reporting (I hesitate to call it journalism).
And all of this belies a subtle form of racism. A similar study of family-style restaurants was not described with the word "American." Another study categorized the fare only as "chain restaurant" food.
Yet, the study on Chinese restaurant food was based on "two nationwide chains." So, is the fact that it's Chinese more important (and more damning) than the fact that it's a chain restaurant? According to the CSPI, apparently it is.
Yet chain restaurants are designed to appeal to the lowest common denominator as cheaply (for the restaurant) as possible. So, of course they're going to use fattier meats which are cheaper than the leaner cuts, deep fried breading and salty sauces. That's what sells, but it is NOT indicative of all Chinese food. That day-glo sweet and sour sauce you get at your typical "Chinese" restaurant is as Chinese as a breakfast burrito is Mexican.
Yet CSPI and CNN did not take their findings of (American) chain restaurant food or family-style restaurant foods and generalize it across all American foods and restaurants like they have with Chinese food and restaurants. Have they done a similar study about Kentucky Fried Chicken and McDonald's and generalized that across all American cuisine? No, they haven't. That's racist.
To compound this, CNN's article makes no mention of CSPI's studies of "chain" or "family-style" restaurant food. However, quoting a CSPI director, it does note that "In some ways... Italian and Mexican restaurants are worse for your health." This, unfortunately, is just more of the old Die Foreigner Die attitude that pervades American society.
Now, I'm not saying that Chinese food isn't high in sodium or fat -- a lot of it is. But, come on people! Show some scientific integrity, or journalistic integrity, or how about some plain old human integrity.